Tis the season of tourists in New York City: sidewalks are clogged with pods of slow-movers wrapped in brightly colored bubble coats, various parts of their heads obscured by miniature electronic equipment. Used to be they confined themselves largely to midtown, but today on my block on the Upper West Side I was stopped by two corn-fed young women who wanted to know where Manhattan was. (If they'd been downtowners, the question would have been meant as an insult.) As it turns out, they were looking for Harlem which, to my surprise, now advertises itself as a tourist destination. So the Apollo takes traveller's checks?