Lots of cowboy hats, bared biceps and unshaven jaws out here in Marlboro Country. Dinner tonight at the highly-recommended Cowboy Ciao where menu includes Testosterone Soup and Big Biceps Salad. (Spinach salad, homage to Popeye.) If I'd had an anchor tattoo, according to the menu, it would have been $4 less. But not every guy out here is a cowboy.