Speaking of art, here's a museum you probably haven't tried. The Lower East Side Troll Museum is run by an eccentric, pixie-ish woman who doesn't feel dressed without prosthetic elf ears. She's turned the front room of her Orchard Street apartment into a showcase for 250 troll dolls. Highlights of the collection include the Pregnant Troll, the Ringo Starr Troll and the Troll Who Started It All--the doll she received in 1977, a doll she decapitated and used as a piggy bank. Admission is free. But, as at the Met, a donation is suggested. Her suggested donation is $3000.